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Car Care Encyclopedia Safety Systems and Safety Check, Page 3 of 3

Links to topics on page 1

Introduction to automotive safety

Crashworthiness

On-board warning systems

Energy-absorbing bumpers

Safety belts

Air bags

Side-impact protection

Head restraints

Infant and child seats

Links to topics on page 2

Links to topics on page 3

Safety on the road
See Figure 13

While you're on the road, pay attention to your car, it may be trying to tell you something. Look, listen, smell and feel for possible problems. Warning signals come in many forms -- noises, different handling and vibrations.

Figure 13 Important items to carry in every car.

HIGHWAY EMERGENCY CHECKLIST

Where to Carry it
Item Car Glove Comp. Trunk

Fire extinguisher *

This manual *

Coins for meters and phone *

Tire gauge *

Flashlight *

First aid kit *

Road maps *

Spare fuses *

Flares *

Lug wrench/jack *

Jumper cables *

Hand tools *

Paper towels/rags *

Work gloves *

Hand cleaner *

Plastic jug of water *

Duct tape *

Silicone spray lube *

Sight
See Figure 14

Part of any walk-around inspection of your car should include checking underneath for spots and drips. Get into the habit of doing this regularly, especially after the car has been driven for a while.

Red spots under the transmission area indicate leaking transmission fluid. Try to find out where the leak is coming from. It could be the problem is as simple as an overfilled transmission. The fluid could be foaming out the dipstick tube and running down the case.

Rust spots of water under the front of the car may indicate a leaking radiator; leaking radiator hoses or simply overflows from the radiator or air conditioning condenser.

Dark oil spots under a differential probably indicate that the differential cover bolts are loose and should be tightened. Oil spots under the engine can mean anything from leaking valve cover gaskets (the oil runs down the engine) to a host of more serious problems. Try to find the source of the leak and fix it.

Figure 14 Let your senses be your guide to safe operation of your car.
COMMON SENSE GUIDE TO SAFETY

Sight Besides routine inspection, be alert to the every appearance. Look for sagging on either end or side of car, puddles underneath or anything that doesn't look right.

Sound If you've got a strange noise, try to associate it with a particular function, such as braking or accelerating. Then you'll know where to look for it.

Smell Smells are deceptive. Does it smell like burned rubber, oil or insulation? Gas or exhaust fumes point out leaks in their systems.

Feel If car handles strangely, is it a constant feel, or does it only pull while braking? Associate behavior of car with particular action.

Smell

Strange odors are often a clue to something gone (or about to go) wrong.

An overheated radiator gives off a steamy vapor and a mild odor something like burning paint. It should warn you to check the temperature gauge or to stop and check the coolant level.
Overheated brake linings give off a strong definite odor of something burning. Usually overheated linings are accompanied by squeaking sounds from the wheels, indicating that the linings are glazed from heat. The best thing to do is stop and let the brakes cool for about half an hour, but have the brakes checked as soon as possible.
Burning oil or grease is a strong, pungent odor, usually more noticeable when the car is not moving. Occasionally, there will be wisps of smoke coming from under the hood. The problem could be as simple as oil leaking from valve cover gaskets onto hot exhaust manifolds, or it could be just accumulated grease from a long overdue engine cleaning.
A frequent smell associated with catalytic converters is the rotten egg smell, which is unmistakable for anything else. One of the byproducts of the reaction in the catalytic converter is sulfur dioxide (SO2), which is responsible for the odor. It does not necessarily indicate a malfunction, but is extremely unpleasant.

Feel

All good drivers learn to recognize when the car is behaving differently than normal. Vibrations often preface great many mechanical problems that can be located and corrected before they become serious. Be suspicious of any vibrations that are out-of-the-ordinary -- be alert and train yourself to recognize the warning signs. Use the information in the following vibration diagnosis chart to determine possible problems.

Figure 15 Vibration diagnosis charts

Noise

Noises are the most common indicator of something go ne wrong in your car, and also the most difficult to interpret. Noises come in hundreds of variations (knocks, rattles, squeaks, grinds, etc.), each with its own particular sound and nearly impossible to describe accurately. The other problem is recognizing when the sound is perfectly normal and when it spells trouble. Virtually any part can make almost any noise if the conditions are right. A stethoscope, piece of hose or a metal rod can be used carefully to pinpoint sounds coming from various parts.

Figure 16 Noise diagnosis chart

NOISES

Noise Description Could be caused by

Buzz A humming sound (bzzzz) A buzz or whistle can be caused by a defective radiator cap. If loosening the cap stops the noise, replace the cap. Other causes include foreign debris on the radiator, loose radiator or fan, or a loose shroud.

Clang Metallic ringing similar to the sound of a bell This is normally due to a failing U-joint and you will hear it as you back off, or step on the gas. U-joints are serviced by replacement.

Click (tick) A quick, sharp sound similar to a loud clock This is normally due to a failing U-joint and you will hear it as you back off, or step on the gas. U-joints are serviced by replacement.

Grinding
Grating
Growling A harsh rubbing sound, like parts rubbing or scraping
A deeper grinding sound Check the fluid level in the power steering pump. U-joints will also occasionally make a grinding noise, as will a starter drive that is not engaging or disengaging completely. Other causes include a bad throwout bearing, dragging brakes, something non-metallic in contact with the brakes or brake drum, worn transmission gears, bad water pump or loose water pump pulley or fan belt contacting the shroud.

Hiss A high pitched sound like steam escaping (sssssssss ... ) The usual cause of this type of sound is steam escaping from the radiator or a broken hose, although it can be produced by a vacuum leak, a leaking tire, or a loose spark plug. All of these are fairly easy to cure. Other causes are wind leaks around the body or windows, or a plugged PCV valve. Watch the oil fill hole; if smoke is coming out accompanied by a hiss, chances are you have worn piston rings.

Howl A prolonged wailing sound A howling sound is usually from the transmission gears (check the fluid level before assuming the worst), but could also be due to wind leaks around the body or windows.

Hum A low droning noise (hummmmmm ... ) A hum from the rear probably indicates a defective rear axle, especially if it is louder coasting, but before having it torn down, check other causes. Snow tires produce a constant hum, as do certain road surfaces. Check the rear axle oil level, wheel bearings and U-joints.

Knock A pounding or striking of metal parts A constant knocking noise is usually due to worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. A knock under load can be caused by worn connecting rod bearings, fuel octane too low, or loose wrist pins in the piston. Remove a spark plug wire from each cylinder in turn. If the knock stops, you've located the cylinder.

Rattle Rapid succession of sharp sounds A constant knocking noise is usually due to worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. A knock under load can be caused by worn connecting rod bearings, fuel octane too low, or loose wrist pins in the piston. Remove a spark plug wire from each cylinder in turn. If the knock stops, you've located the cylinder.

Squeal A prolonged, shrill squeaking A squeal normally comes from an Improperly tightened fan belt, but could be due to a bad water pump, brakes not fully releasing, improper toe-in, worn brake linings, low tires or worn alternator bearings.

Thud A dull knocking sound These sounds are caused by low, flat-spotted or out-of-round tires, worn U-joints (they give a slight thud as you let off the gas), loose battery or contents of the trunk, bad throwout bearing (check by applying and releasing the clutch), excessive play in the crankshaft or broken engine mounts.

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�1998 W. G. Nichols - Chilton's Easy Car Care

*Figure 13* Important items to carry in every car.
HIGHWAY EMERGENCY CHECKLIST
	Where to Carry it
Item	Car	Glove Comp.	Trunk
Fire extinguisher	*
This manual	*
Coins for meters and phone		*
Tire gauge		*
Flashlight		*
First aid kit		*
Road maps		*
Spare fuses		*
Flares			*
Lug wrench/jack			*
Jumper cables			*
Hand tools			*
Paper towels/rags			*
Work gloves			*
Hand cleaner			*
Plastic jug of water			*
Duct tape			*
Silicone spray lube			*

*Figure 14* Let your senses be your guide to safe operation of your car. COMMON SENSE GUIDE TO SAFETY
Sight	Besides routine inspection, be alert to the every appearance. Look for sagging on either end or side of car, puddles underneath or anything that doesn't look right.

Sound	If you've got a strange noise, try to associate it with a particular function, such as braking or accelerating. Then you'll know where to look for it.

Smell	Smells are deceptive. Does it smell like burned rubber, oil or insulation? Gas or exhaust fumes point out leaks in their systems.

Feel	If car handles strangely, is it a constant feel, or does it only pull while braking? Associate behavior of car with particular action.

*Figure 16* Noise diagnosis chart

NOISES

Noise	Description	Could be caused by

Buzz	A humming sound (bzzzz)	A buzz or whistle can be caused by a defective radiator cap. If loosening the cap stops the noise, replace the cap. Other causes include foreign debris on the radiator, loose radiator or fan, or a loose shroud.

Clang	Metallic ringing similar to the sound of a bell	This is normally due to a failing U-joint and you will hear it as you back off, or step on the gas. U-joints are serviced by replacement.

Click (tick)	A quick, sharp sound similar to a loud clock	This is normally due to a failing U-joint and you will hear it as you back off, or step on the gas. U-joints are serviced by replacement.

Grinding Grating Growling	A harsh rubbing sound, like parts rubbing or scraping A deeper grinding sound	Check the fluid level in the power steering pump. U-joints will also occasionally make a grinding noise, as will a starter drive that is not engaging or disengaging completely. Other causes include a bad throwout bearing, dragging brakes, something non-metallic in contact with the brakes or brake drum, worn transmission gears, bad water pump or loose water pump pulley or fan belt contacting the shroud.

Hiss	A high pitched sound like steam escaping (sssssssss ... )	The usual cause of this type of sound is steam escaping from the radiator or a broken hose, although it can be produced by a vacuum leak, a leaking tire, or a loose spark plug. All of these are fairly easy to cure. Other causes are wind leaks around the body or windows, or a plugged PCV valve. Watch the oil fill hole; if smoke is coming out accompanied by a hiss, chances are you have worn piston rings.

Howl	A prolonged wailing sound	A howling sound is usually from the transmission gears (check the fluid level before assuming the worst), but could also be due to wind leaks around the body or windows.

Hum	A low droning noise (hummmmmm ... )	A hum from the rear probably indicates a defective rear axle, especially if it is louder coasting, but before having it torn down, check other causes. Snow tires produce a constant hum, as do certain road surfaces. Check the rear axle oil level, wheel bearings and U-joints.

Knock	A pounding or striking of metal parts	A constant knocking noise is usually due to worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. A knock under load can be caused by worn connecting rod bearings, fuel octane too low, or loose wrist pins in the piston. Remove a spark plug wire from each cylinder in turn. If the knock stops, you've located the cylinder.

Rattle	Rapid succession of sharp sounds	A constant knocking noise is usually due to worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. A knock under load can be caused by worn connecting rod bearings, fuel octane too low, or loose wrist pins in the piston. Remove a spark plug wire from each cylinder in turn. If the knock stops, you've located the cylinder.

Squeal	A prolonged, shrill squeaking	A squeal normally comes from an Improperly tightened fan belt, but could be due to a bad water pump, brakes not fully releasing, improper toe-in, worn brake linings, low tires or worn alternator bearings.

Thud	A dull knocking sound	These sounds are caused by low, flat-spotted or out-of-round tires, worn U-joints (they give a slight thud as you let off the gas), loose battery or contents of the trunk, bad throwout bearing (check by applying and releasing the clutch), excessive play in the crankshaft or broken engine mounts.